I had this great plan to spend a day in Mexico while I was in San Diego for a bonus passport stamp and tasty tacos, but the general consensus among people who live here is, “Yeah, we’re not really supposed to do that these days….” I bought a blanket identical to my parents’ beach blanket (oh, this is where they got that) from a Tijuana native in San Diego who shrugged and said it wasn’t that dangerous as long as you stayed in the main tourist areas. I did enough reporting on trafficking to know I am not interested in being sold into white slavery, so I did the next best thing and skipped Mexico for Historic Old Town San Diego!
Did you know Old Town is where the first Europeans settled along the West Coast?! Some of the original buildings are even still standing! Most homes were adobe, but as some of the townspeople became rich they built homes of wood or brick.
Here’s a nice story from the old days: San Diegoians decided to build a jail, but forgot to put cement in the mortar. So when the mayor’s brother, Roy Bean, became the jail’s first prisoner, he simply dug out, went to the saloon and bought everyone a round to celebrate his own escape. He went on to Texas and became Judge Roy Bean, “The Law West of the Pecos.” Yikes. As legend goes, this prompted the sheriffs to give prisoners the prison keys and ask them to lock themselves up to avoid further vandalism to the structure.
Years later outlaw James “Yankee Jim” Robinson allegedly wanted to steal a schooner so he stole a rowboat and rowed toward it. Between the crime of stealing the rowboat and the intended crime of stealing the schooner poor Jim was arrested and sentenced to death for an intended crime. The jury included two owners of the schooner and a host of others who knew his reputation as an outlaw, so this conviction seems slightly unfair. Jim was convinced no one would actually hang him, but they did—on the spot where the Whaley house was later built.
Jim is one of several ghosts who contributes to the house’s reputation as the most haunted house in America. Whaley was one of the owners of the town’s general store, and he, his wife and their son died in the house naturally, plus a little girl died of accidental poisoning, plus Whaley’s daughter shot herself on the grounds after a heartbreaking divorce at only 22. I walked around but did not go in. Yikes!
La Casa de Estudillo is a 170-year-old adobe hacienda that’s one of many old houses now turned into a (free) museum. This one is filled with antiques to show how a well-off family would have lived. I don’t think there’s anything more peaceful than strong, dark furniture against cool, white walls and clutter-free shelves and table-tops. A pleasant emptiness. Ah, how appealing to live in a time before paper-clutter. But I guess they traded paper-clutter for a general lack of indoor plumbing, air conditioning and stuff. Still.










