How to Enjoy Enoshima Octopus Crackers

At Enoshima Island you can buy an entire octopus smooshed into a big cracker at Asahi Honten. This fascinating delicacy is translucent and beautifully marbled like handmade Amalfi paper. Or depending on your perspective, Enoshima octopus crackers look like a very large and surprised bug splatted on your windshield.

Asahi Honten is easy to find because there is always a very long line in the narrow shopping street in front of the octopus cracker shop, and there are always people standing around eating flattened octopus paper across the street.

I told the kids about this while we were in Belgium. I chickened out eating this delicacy the first time we were in Japan I wanted to try it. Well here we are. Chris and the kids declined to join me in this adventure, so in case I succumb to injuries sustained unpacking our giant western things into our tiny Japanese place, I leave these instructions so they can remember me someday by pilgrimaging to Enoshima Island, following my instructions for once, and grimacing through this tasty treat while wishing I’d posthumously asked them to go eat those French butter cookies at Mont Saint Michel in France instead.

How to Enjoy Enoshima Octopus Crackers

First, go to Enoshima. It’s easy to take the train from most places in Japan. Then go out to the prominent island offshore. This is Enoshima Island. It is one of my very favorite places in the world. Yes, the world!!

Second, go straight up the main shopping street. You will pass lots of delicious-looking food, like ice cream served in seashell-shaped cones, fresh scallops fire grilled right in front of you, balls of mochi in syrup on a stick, soft serve ice cream topped with the regional specialty shirasu (baby sardines)… stay focused! Keep walking! Before you get to the temple at the end of the street you will pass the shop. You’ll know you’re at the Enoshima octopus cracker shop when you see the line of people. It’s probably longer than you think, so go all the way to the back and get in line.

Next, wait in line while your small companions complain and whine. Tell them to be quiet. Offer them money to go buy themselves ice cream. Nothing will stem the tide. Stay focused! Keep your eye on the prize: Enoshima octopus crackers! You’re almost there.

When you arrive at the vending machine, put in ¥500 and push the button for octopus crackers. Other options include shrimp crackers and blue crackers at ¥600 each. The vending machine will issue you a ticket. There is an attendant here if you need help, but the octopus cracker button is clearly marked at the top left of the machine.

At the first window, you’ll turn your ticket in for a laminated card with a picture of an octopus. Do not eat this. This is not your Enoshima octopus cracker. You will be very disappointed with the texture and flavor. Here you may excitedly watch the chefs arrange lightly breaded octopuses and shrimps onto big hot flat grills. When the seafood is arranged, the top comes down like a waffle maker and the chef cranks the lever to tighten the vice and flatten the seafood. Steam will pour out the windows. The chefs check and trim their work, then crank it down to flatten and cook it some more.

At the last window, hand over your card and receive your prize. Admire the loops and swirls of the tentacles in your Enoshima octopus cracker. Hold it up to the light to see its full beauty.

Finally, the time has come to enjoy your treat. Right off the grill, octopus crackers are crisp and tender, and the octopus taste is extremely subtle. To tell you the truth, I don’t love octopus, but this is so enjoyable and easy to eat that Enoshima octopus crackers are now my absolute favorite way to eat octopus! Even if that’s not saying a whole lot.

Join us next time when we try SHRIMP CRACKERS!